My 2000 Toyota Tundra's Long Cranks Before Start Problem Turned Into a $1,000 Mystery

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After spending $1,100 on my 2000 Toyota Tundra my problem of long cranks isn't fixed even with these fixes and replacements.

A "realtormarcos" user in the Toyota Tundra Enthusiasts forum yesterday documented that he has a 2000 Toyota Tundra extended cab 4x4, which has been experiencing long cranks before starting when hot. He has had a fuel pump and filter, fuel pump resistor, and fuel injection pressure damper installed, but the problem continues. He describes the exact symptoms he is experiencing, including the fact that the truck starts fine when cold but has long cranks after driving across town and letting it sit for 30 minutes to an hour.

This is what he wrote:

2000 Tundra 4.7 4x4 192,000 miles.

I bought this truck about four months ago. In the last month, I began experiencing long cranks before starting. When it did start, it would turn over and barely catch. I'd then let it idle for a minute before taking off. Currently in New Mexico, and temperatures are reaching about 100 degrees Fahrenheit daily.

I had a fuel pump and filter installed. The problem persisted. I then had a fuel pump resistor and fuel injection pressure damper installed. The shop called me and said it was ready. Literally, on the first start in the parking lot, the problem was still there.

Here's exactly what's happening: the first start of the day is fine. It starts right up. Cranks for a split second and then starts. Totally normal. However, if I drive across town, get it to operating temperature, and then turn it off... if I start it immediately after, it'll start right up. If I let it sit for 30 minutes to an hour, it'll have long cranks. Approximately 2-3 seconds. (1 Mississippi, 2 Mississippi, 3 Mississippi) then starts. It barely catches, then idles and drives fine.

Yesterday, I pulled one plug and it looked fine. I don't know how new the plugs, injectors, or coils are. I bought this truck because the Carfax had 53 service records from a local Toyota dealership. I thought it was in good shape. I also have half a tank of fuel with a bottle of injector cleaner. The $7 stuff from the gas station.

A couple of threads suggested cleaning the MAF, which I did. Others mention the crank position sensor. I'm kind of frustrated and annoyed. $1100 later and my problem isn't fixed. I've found a few threads like this online. Nobody seems to post the solution. Apparently, this is a problem for the Tacomas, first-generation, and second-generation Tundras too.

Help?

As you can see from the realtormarcos' post he has ruled out a number of potential causes, including a bad battery, fuel pump, and fuel filter. 

But interestingly, another user, named Artsr2002, says he had a Honda Accord that acted similarly when hot. And it turned out to be the start relay in the dash just behind the fuse panel. He says he replaced it, and no problem after that.

This is a great point. I would suggest checking for a similar relay as the starter relay and swapping them to see if it helps.

Alternatively, this could be a blown head gasket issue, or could very well be a coil/plug misfire issue, or fuel pump.

Based on the information provided, here are a few potential solutions to the long cranking issue:

  1. Check for Vacuum Leaks:
    • A vacuum leak can cause air to enter the engine's intake system, disrupting the air-fuel mixture. This can lead to difficulty starting when the engine is hot.
    • Inspect all vacuum hoses and connections for cracks, tears, or disconnections.
    • Use a vacuum gauge to test for leaks in the system.
  2. Examine the Ignition System:
    • A weak or faulty ignition coil can prevent the spark plugs from firing properly.
    • Check the ignition coils for signs of damage or overheating.
    • Replace any faulty coils.
    • Ensure the spark plugs are clean and in good condition.
  3. Inspect the Fuel Injectors:
    • Clogged or worn fuel injectors can affect the engine's fuel delivery.
    • Have the fuel injectors cleaned or replaced if necessary.
    • Consider using a fuel system cleaner to help clear any deposits.
  4. Verify the Crankshaft Position Sensor:
    • A faulty crankshaft position sensor can disrupt the engine's timing, making it difficult to start.
    • Test the sensor using a diagnostic scanner.
    • Replace the sensor if it's found to be defective.
  5. Consider a Fuel Pressure Regulator:
    • A faulty fuel pressure regulator can cause fuel pressure to be too high or too low.
    • Test the fuel pressure regulator to ensure it's functioning correctly.
    • Replace the regulator if necessary.

If none of these solutions resolve the issue, it may be helpful to consult with a professional mechanic for further diagnosis and repairs.

Note: While these are potential solutions, it's important to address the issue promptly to prevent further damage to your Toyota Tundra's engine, like this one, which turned into a warranty battelgroun at 7,000 miles.

Let me know in the comments section below if you have another solution for this problem. Or see what to expect from the 2024 Toyota Tundra.

Armen Hareyan is the founder and the Editor in Chief of Torque News. He founded TorqueNews.com in 2010, which since then has been publishing expert news and analysis about the automotive industry. He can be reached at Torque News TwitterFacebookLinkedin, and Youtube. He has more than a decade of expertise in the automotive industry with a special interest in Tesla and electric vehicles.

Submitted by Bill Olson (not verified) on August 25, 2024 - 7:15PM

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My Brother had this same problem in 2005 Tundra, replace computer brain for $200.00 from junk yard. Started right up purrs like a kitten. Hope this helps. :) 4.7 motor 2005 Tundra

Submitted by Alex P (not verified) on August 25, 2024 - 10:17PM

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I think the real mystery here is why the fuel pump was even replaced at all. Fuel rail pressure should have been checked during crank first especially since the problem is frequent and easy to duplicate. Id find yourself a different and more skilled mechanic that replaces parts after confirming that theyre actually bad. Parts changers do nothing but waste money and time of the customer.
Sure, check for vacuum leaks but the nature of the issue seems to indicate a non vacuum issue. If it was heat soak from operation it would cause the no start right after shutting off as well and not just later on. My first place to look would be injectors and nearby wiring given the parts that have already been unnecessarily changed. Checking individual injector circuits from harness @ ecm and comparing the results to eachother i think would be a good start. Wouldnt hurt to confirm proper rail pressure as well to rule out everything else fuel pressure related.
Good luck