You’d think upgrading your truck’s steering would make it tighter, more confident, and better equipped to handle a massive 8-inch lift. But what if it does the opposite? What if it leaves you battling the wheel like you’re fighting a crosswind in a shopping cart with bad casters?
That’s exactly what happened to Matty Dee, a Ram 2500 owner who went in to fix a suspension rattle and drove out with a truck that suddenly felt borderline undrivable. I came across his story while strolling through the “Ram 2500 4x4 Group” on Facebook, and it was the kind of experience that hits home for a lot of truck guys. It’s a cautionary tale about trusting the wrong shop, chasing phantom upgrades, and what can happen when one small change knocks the whole system out of balance.
It Started with a Loose Shock, and Spiraled from There
Here’s how Matty's post described what went down: “I have a 2021 Ram 2500 with an 8-inch BDS lift. Long story short, I was sold on upgrading my drag link because they said it was ‘flexing’ when I turned the wheels. They installed an Apex Chassis drag link and also replaced the upper and lower ball joints. My issue now is when I’m driving, it’s a constant battle, constantly correcting myself and ping-ponging between lanes. They tightened the Pitman arm, which helped a little bit, but now they say there’s nothing more they can do. They're telling me I need to upgrade my steering box, which is $1,400 plus labor, and claim that could be part of the problem. I originally went in for a suspension noise in the rear end, which turned out to be just a loose shock I tightened myself. I never had any issues with my steering using the stock drag link, I could drive in and out of traffic without a problem. But now it’s scary when I’m behind the wheel. Has anyone else had something like this happen? I’m planning to get a second opinion from another shop because I feel like this place has no clue what they’re doing. I think they sold me on a product I didn’t need, and now my truck drives worse than ever.”
That’s the kind of situation that makes you want to rip the keys out of the ignition and walk. A truck that used to feel dialed in, especially one with such a serious lift, now felt unpredictable and borderline dangerous.
And Matty’s not alone. The comment section lit up with others who’ve been in similar situations.
Advice from the Community: Stabilizers, Pitman Arms, and More
Castillo had one of the most direct responses and threw down some serious upgrade suggestions: “A PSC Big Bore steering box, a drop Pitman arm, and nitrogen-charged Carli stabilizers might fix your ping-pong steering issue.”
That might sound like a laundry list of expensive parts, but in the world of lifted Rams, these types of upgrades are often necessary to correct geometry and beef up components that weren’t meant to handle 8 inches of lift. Carli, in particular, has built a reputation for offering some of the most dependable and engineered solutions for Dodge and Ram trucks. In fact, I’ve covered why high-quality upgrades matter so much in my piece about how I completed my 2024 Ram 2500 Laramie Night Edition with new wheels and other exterior mods, and in many ways, it’s the same principle: the parts you choose define the experience you get.
Another user, Matt, chimed in with a hot take that cuts straight to the point: “That’s too much lift to drive well, in my opinion. Rip it off and put a Thuren or Carli setup on instead.”
Matt’s comment might ruffle feathers, but he’s not wrong. Excessive lifts don’t always play nicely with factory geometry. That’s why many Ram owners swear by setups from companies like Thuren and Carli, which prioritize ride quality and handling rather than just height. It reminds me of the time I reflected on leaving my Ram 2500 EcoBoost and why I came back to the HEMI, because sometimes the decision that looks good on paper ends up costing you in drivability.
Then there was Devon, who dropped an in-depth breakdown of a similar rabbit hole he went down: “I'm dealing with a similar issue. I replaced my ball joints with EMFs, and suddenly the truck was all over the road. Someone suggested I replace the drag link and tie rod, I did, but it made no difference. Now I’m leaning toward the control arm bushings, so I’m just going to replace the whole arms... What’s strange is that it drove fine before replacing the ball joints, even though they had obvious play. Apparently, removing ball joints on these Dodges is insane, so my theory is that all the impacts from removal might’ve damaged or loosened the control arm bushings.”
Devon’s theory is one a lot of experienced Dodge/Ram owners would nod along with. The process of changing front-end components can be brutal, especially on older trucks. All those hammer blows and press tools can throw off other parts of the suspension that you weren’t even trying to touch. It brings up another topic I’ve explored in my article on debating an extended warranty for my Ram 2500 6.4L HEMI after hearing about known issues. Because sometimes, even when you try to stay ahead of problems, new ones show up.
My Opinion as a Truck Guy
From where I stand, it seems like Matty’s experience isn’t just a fluke, it’s a classic example of how steering geometry, suspension setup, and part quality all work together, especially on heavy-duty trucks with extreme lifts. When any of those three pillars is off, even slightly, you can feel it in the wheel. That’s what makes troubleshooting so hard. One shop might sell you a drag link, another might blame the steering box, and another might find a worn bushing nobody else noticed. In my opinion, the smartest thing Matty can do now is take it to a well-reviewed off-road specialist that understands these trucks from the inside out, not just someone who knows how to bolt on aftermarket parts.
Sometimes “Upgrades” Aren’t the Solution
What Matty really experienced was a chain reaction: change one component, and you expose weaknesses in others. Sometimes the stock part wasn’t even the problem, it was just the most obvious one. It’s a scenario I touched on in my review of the 2015 Ram 2500 Tradesman with the 6.7L Cummins, where even a workhorse truck can feel refined and tight when everything is working in harmony.
That’s what makes these stories so important to share. Because until you’ve driven a truck that suddenly feels unsafe after a so-called “upgrade,” it’s hard to appreciate just how delicate that balance really is.
Why You Should Always Get a Second Opinion
Matty’s decision to get a second opinion might be the smartest move he’s made in this whole ordeal. When a shop throws expensive parts at your truck without diagnosing the root cause, it’s a red flag. A real technician will test for slop in the steering box, verify toe and caster alignment, check bushing movement, and measure drag link angles before recommending a $1,400 steering box.
And who knows? Maybe that second shop will say the same thing, but at least then it’s coming from a place of informed expertise.
As Ram continues to evolve and dominate the heavy-duty space, stories like this are a reminder that customization should be thoughtful and guided by real-world knowledge. If you’re diving into modifications, check out this story about a new Ram package designed to make its 1500, 2500, and 3500 stand out. Sometimes the best upgrades are the ones engineered from the factory.
Final Thoughts: Don't Let Bad Advice Steer You Wrong
Matty’s experience might sound like a worst-case scenario, but it’s actually pretty common. The aftermarket world is full of great parts and great shops, but it’s also full of upsells, questionable advice, and setups that just don’t work together. If your truck drives worse after an “upgrade,” don’t ignore it. Don’t push through it. Get answers.
Also, if you’re following the latest developments with Ram, check out how the former CEO's return is shaking things up in 2025. It’s a good reminder that the people behind the brand matter just as much as the products.
So now I want to hear from you:
- Have you ever made a steering or suspension upgrade that made your truck drive worse? What did you do to fix it?
- Do you think shops are too quick to sell expensive steering components without fully diagnosing the problem?
Drop your story in the comments, I’m curious to hear how you handled it.
Narek Hareyan is a young automotive journalist with experience in a golf cart dealership and an interest in the automotive industry. Follow Narek on X for daily news coverage about cars.
Comments
When you go around a corner…
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When you go around a corner and let go of your steering wheel and it returns itself to the center it is the caster angle of your “king pin” that causes that. That also allows you to let go of the wheel and expect your vehicle to go stay in your lane and not go into the bushes. Messing around with lifts and pinion angles etc can mess that up. That’s is why new ball joints will change that angle and cause it to be undrivable. You may need to twist the axle slightly to compensate
Suffering similar issues…
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Suffering similar issues when I bought a used 22 power wagon sight unseen from a dealer 500 miles away that delivered it to me. When I got it, it had a 4" Bds lift kit in it (which was news to me). Cool, it's really tall. It also handled like a school bus. After writing off the handling as being an HD truck and after going from Raptor to TRX to PW, noises started in the front end. Horrendous creaking suspension noises. Took it to a shop and together we diagnosed 2 problems - first, a loose upper shock bolt, the the most crucial to handling was that the BDS adjustable track bar was over torqued by about 70 lbs. With it now tightened to spec, the truck still does not drive like either of the two trophy trucks with IFS, but it drives like it should.
Torque specs matter. Over torquing caused the bearings in the trackbar to wear and create slop and the tightness made steering an unbearable chore and felt like the truck was going to lose a wheel whenever nearing full lock out pulling in or backing out of a parking spot.
I had the same issue. 2023…
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I had the same issue. 2023 ram 2500, 6in lift, 37" tires. One thing solved my steering problems. A steering box stabilizer. It now drives better than stock. Anything else trying to correct sloppy steering is a waste. Trust me on this one. Several companies make them and they are not expensive. Take you about 30 min to install. Good luck
I can tell you exactly what…
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I can tell you exactly what the problem is. Have seen it dozens of times as this is what I do. Read your own words. It all started with the new ball joints. Many times ball joints will require some time to "break in". When they are manufactured sometimes they are very tight. This condition is not as bad on a stock vehicle but when you throw the lift in it can make driving a bit scary at first.